There’s no serious traveler out there who hasn’t heard about Spain’s coastline, filled with buzzing cities, picturesque towns and villages, endless golden or white sand beaches and spectacular rocky cliffs. The Iberian country has a total of 17 coastal regions, 11 at the Mediterranean Sea and 6 at the Atlantic Ocean, each with its own terrain particularities and landscapes. Of course, there’s no surprise that the first that come to most people’s minds are the most well-known ones, like Costa del Sol, Costa Blanca or Costa Brava. But during my trip from September this year, I uncovered two of the coasts that are not as popular as these, located between Barcelona and Valencia: Costa Dorada and Costa del Azahar.
For those passionate about foreign languages or word meanings, the names of the coasts are closely connected with their scenery. Costa Dorada translates to “the Golden Coast”, and it’s easy to guess that its name comes from the color of the sandy beaches. Costa del Azahar means “the Orange Blossom Coast”, thanks to the orange groves that can be found all along its 120 km length.
I planned an itinerary of nine days in total, but due to some issues with the airline, which resulted in the cancellation of the return flight halfway throughout the holiday (worst scenario ever), it got reduced to eight. The journey started and ended in Barcelona, where the first four days were spent. It was my second visit to one of the best cities in the world, a definitely must see destination, that should be on everyone’s bucket list. But since this post is not about Barcelona, I recommend having a look at the separate article.
For the remaining five four days, my plan was to drive along the coast, do some sightseeing, sunbathe, swim in the Mediterranean Sea, and discover Valencia, Spain’s third largest city and home of paella. Unfortunately, loosing a day due to the flight change meant that at least two stops on the way back to Barcelona had to be excluded from the list. What a bummer… To ease traveling from one place to another, I rented a Fiat 500 from OK Rent a Car via Rentalcars, which was very, very cheap, less than €100 for 5 days, with full protection included.
Accommodation
In Barcelona, I booked the exact same hotel I stayed in three and a half years ago, Hostal Mare Nostrum (Carrer de Sant Pau, 2), mostly because the price was fair and it’s right in the center. The fifth night was spent at Parador de Tortosa (Castilo de la Zuda s/n, Tortosa), a charming hotel right next to Tortosa’s medieval castle. Situated on top of a hill, it offers breathtaking views of the town and the river Ebro.
Night six had to be special, as it was my 33rd birthday. The place was spectacular: Maison San Alfredo B&B (Cami de la Lloma cv300 km3.5, El Puig de Santa Maria), a mansion built at the end of the 19th century. Surrounded by lush vegetation, it had large rooms, beautiful decorations and an impressive common area, with a pool, a jacuzzi and a self service bar. And, believe it or not, all these plus the continental breakfast came at only €90 per night, which made it the cheapest accommodation of the trip.
The last two nights were spent at NH Valencia Las Ciencias (Avinguda de l’Institut Obrer de Valencia 26, Valencia), which turned out to be a big disappointment. Apart from the good location, a few minutes away from the City of Arts and Sciences, and the breakfast buffet, pretty much everything else was bad: the customer service, the furniture, the room isolation. It seemed like a complete rip off. But luckily for me, I did not spend too much time inside the hotel.
From Barcelona to Valencia
The distance between Barcelona and Valencia is 350 km, and can be covered in about 3 hours and a half. I had to test this in the last day, when I had to leave Valencia long before sunrise, to drop the rental and catch the early flight. Along the road, there are a few interesting towns and beaches that are worth a visit. The first stop was Sitges, known for its annual film festival, specialized in fantasy and horror movies, and also for its beaches and LGBT culture. While at the beach, you will spot Iglesia de San Bartolomé y Santa Tecla, the main baroque church of the town, built in the 17th century.
After a sunny afternoon at the beach, the first day on the road ended in Tortosa, a quiet provincial town with a long history behind, located not far from the Ebro Delta. It’s main sights are Castell de la Suda, the Arab fortress dating from the 10th century, Catedral de Santa Maria and the old town, with its palaces, narrow streets and small squares. It felt very pleasant to wander around for some tens of minutes, without having a clear direction. And afterwards to sip on a coffee and watch the people as they pass by, in one of the lovely squares – which I did, on my birthday, in Plaça de l’Àngel at La Botiga del Café.
The morning of the second day passed fast, so it was time to get in the car and head again to the beach, this time in Peñiscola. This is one of the most popular tourist resorts on Costa del Azahar, known by the locals as “the city in the sea”. The large beach spans for kilometers and, near the center, offers an amazing view of Castell de Peñiscola, a castle built by the Knights Templar. You’ll find many bars and restaurants along the promenade, but don’t forget that most are closed for siesta between 4 and 7 PM. I was lucky to find one open which serves a delicious paella: Bar Dtapeo (Avinguda del Papa Luna 11).
The final stop was in Port Saplaya, an interesting port town built in the 1970s, just north of Valencia. Some might find it kitschy, but it’s a place full of color, green vegetation, that has two beaches and a well designed marina. I personally enjoyed walking around its canals.
Guide to Valencia
Valencia is a vibrant destination, perfect for both a short city break or a longer stay. It’s a place where old meets new – you’ll often see centuries-old landmarks next to futuristic buildings, with a fine local cuisine and kilometers of sandy beaches, that’s often overlooked in favor of Barcelona or Madrid. I planned two days for Valencia, but due to that flight change, I had to cut it to one and a half, which doesn’t sound like much time. Still, I managed to walk and see a lot, and here’s what I discovered:
→ Let’s start with the modern part: Ciudad de las Artes y las Ciencias, a large cultural and architectural complex, developed on the former riverbed of the river Turia. Designed by two of the biggest names in the industry, Félix Candela and Santiago Calatrava, it consists of eight buildings and structures, out of which: a museum of science (Museu de les Ciències Príncipe Felipe), an oceanarium (L’Oceanogràfic), an opera house (Palau de les Arts Reina Sofía), an events hall (L’Àgora) and an IMAX Cinema and planetarium (L’Hemisfèric). Some have free entrance, for some you need a ticket, but even if you don’t visit any of the buildings, it’s still a great area to relax and admire the architecture.
→ Before reaching the old town, you should make a stop at Mercat de Colón. Located in a beautiful 1916 Art Nouveau building, this former market is now home to many restaurants and cafes. My tip: try at Casa Orxata the favorite dish of the locals, horchata (a plant based beverage, always served cold) with farton (sort of a brioche, with sugar on one side).
→ Ciutat Vella (meaning old city in English) is Valencia’s most important neighborhood, thanks to its rich artistic heritage. It is the site of the original city, that was surrounded by walls during the Middle Ages. These walls have been completely removed more than 100 years ago, but two of the gates have survived, one to the north (Torres de Serranos), and one to the west (Torres de Quart).
→ The heart of the old town is Plaça de la Reina, a lively square dominated by El Micalet, the bell tower of La Seu (the city’s main cathedral). Here’s a mind-blowing fact about the cathedral: did you know that it is one of the places claiming to possess the actual Holy Grail – the chalice used by Jesus during the Last Supper? Probably not. And even the Vatican has admitted that the chances are high.
→ A second square, Plaça de la Verge, can be found on the opposite side of the cathedral. It features a large Neptune fountain in its center, that represents the Turia river, a small church decorated with frescoes, dedicated to the patron saint of Valencia – Basílica de la Mare de Déu dels Desamparats, plus several cafes and historical buildings on the side.
→ Mercat Central is one of the largest markets in Europe. The architecture is similar to the one of Mercat de Colón, both have a dome and the same materials were used (glass and iron), but this one is bigger and inside you will mostly find food stands. And lots of tourists.
→ Across from the market, it’s Llotja de la Seda, the silk exchange from a few centuries ago. It’s listed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO and showcases the power and wealth of Valencia, one of the most important mercantile cities back in the medieval times.
→ A visit to Centre del Carme Cultura Contemporània is also a good idea. It’s a cultural center in a former 13th century convent, free of charge, that has various expos related to the Valencian Community.
→ I will end the tour with Plaça de l’Ajuntament, the largest square in Ciutat Vella. There are several large, imposing buildings, but I believe that two really stand out: the City Hall and the Postal Services HQ (Edificio de Correos).
Spain’s east coast and Valencia haven’t disappointed, despite having less time than initially planned. The weather at the beginning of September was perfect, not too hot, not too cold, the beaches, still a bit crowded, but surely not as crowded as in the summer, while the whole atmosphere felt relaxed. So, yeah, I would come back for more sun and architectural gems. But next time I will probably choose the southern region, as I’ve had Sevilla on my mind for quite a while now.
Nos vemos, España!
Author: Marian Bulacu
Live. Love. Travel. Make a difference.